How to Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your highland cow 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on. In this case I’m showing you a few versions as it’s one of my oldest designs, and best sellers. It’s also one of my favourites that I like to show at artist demonstrations and workshops as I think it shows the technique off nicely, especially how I use modroc to create texture.

I start by drawing the highland cow design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that, following my instructions. In early versions, which you can see here, I include the eyes up until the modroc stage as I felt that it was important that even though you couldn’t see them behind the hair/fur that they still were there. But over the course of making various versions of them I came to realise that actually they aren’t neccesary, so that’s why they aren’t included in your template.

Next I cut out the design. In some versions, and in your instructions I get you to use more cardboard shapes to create the 3D layers, but with this one I just used the one piece of cardboard and created the 3D layers by overlapping the edges (apart from the eyes).

It is this cardboard stage that makes them really 3D but because it is cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage is applying the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers.

I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To create the highland cow’s hair/fur there are a few techniques to try, the main ones that I’ve found to be effective are scrunching and rolling. Both ways mean using more modroc once the whole shape is covered smooth so keep this in mind when you’re cutting your large piece of modroc down to size. Keep the offcuts to use to create your hair/fur texture. Scrunching means you use different sized pieces and once they’re wet you scrunch them on top of the smoothed modroc you previously applied. This creates a wrinkled effect. The next technique I’ve called rolling as it involves cutting thin strips of modroc and rolling them into sausage shapes before placing them on top of the previously applied modroc. You can also use your thumb/finger nail to gently score grooves/lines into the drying modroc too. Once you’re happy with the texture you’ve created it’s then time to leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used brown, orange, yellow, white, green, and black.

I started by painting the whole of the highland cow white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body brown and the feet, horns and nose a light brown, by mixing the white and brown together. I painted in the nostrils with black and added some white highlights to the feet, nose and horns. I then used the orange, yellow, brown and white to mix in different ways on the hair/fur until I was happy with how it looked. Finally, I mixed a light green, as a suggestion of grass, to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your mermaid 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the mermaid design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I then cut out the design and made another layer for the face, it’s just another piece of cardboard cut into a circle the same as the one in the original design, and raised the end of the tail by drawing round it onto another piece of card and placing it underneath the original.

I used the rounded end of a pencil to push in the eyes, then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Finally I use two small squares of modroc to make the shell bra by rolling them into a ball when wet then smushing them into place. Then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), orange, yellow, green, blue, black and silver.

I started by painting the whole of the mermaid white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and torso pink, the hair orange and then once it was dry painted in yellow highlights. I painted the tail turquoise, by mixing the green with a bit of blue and white, then added a bit more blue to the mix to paint in the scales. White was used for the eyes, necklace and shell bra, with silver for the shell bra details.

Next was black for the eyes, nose, mouth and bellybutton and a bit of red/pink for the blush cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting (rectangle version)

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your Unicorn 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

Using the template I created I started by cutting it out and drawing round it onto the cardboard. I then cut the head/mane off of the template and used this to cut out another cardboard shape. To finish the cardboard stage I cut out the eye and placed all the cardboard cut out shapes onto the blank canvas, stuck them down with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry. It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to.

Once it’s all covered, including the sides where it meets the canvas, I then use extra bits on top of the hair/mane and tail to give it more texture. I did this by scrunching/ruffling it up and using my thumbnail, once it started to set, to gently score some lines into it too. You could also try cutting strips, wetting them and rolling them into sausages then placing them on top. To give a kind of dreadlocks appearance.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, shiny purple, gold, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the unicorn white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the horn gold and the hair/mane and tail in the shiny purple, I mixed a light grey with the black and white to add some shading details to the legs, head and horn. I used the black to add the details on the face (eyes, nose and mouth) then I finished it off by mixing a light blue and painting the canvas background with it.

So now you know how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Charmander’, ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

Continuing on from when I made the original ‘Pikachu’ and ‘Eevee’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings, here, I decided to make some more and it made sense to me that the next ones should be the starter Pokemon from the first generation. So here is how I made ‘Charmander’, Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’

If you’d like to make your own I have kits available for only £5 and £10 here

Charmander here, Bulbasaur here, Squirtle here.

Here’s how I made them:

I started by drawing the design directly onto the cardboard, I then cut the cardboard out and made it into 3D layers. Once these had been stuck onto the blank canvases I covered each one in modroc(bandages with plaster of Paris in them) and painted with acrylic paints when the modroc was dry.

Here’s a more in depth look at each one, which you can use to help you when you’re making your own with one of my kits. Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

If you need any more help or have any questions get in touch

All of the originals are available for sale, ‘Charmander’ found his forever home at Christmas but ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ are still looking for theirs, only £50 each.

Plus I have cards available too for only £2

Shop Now

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

New Purple Faye Product: New ‘Make Your Own 3D Picture Kits’

You may remember my previous blog posts about developing my ‘Make Your Own 3D Picture’ well over the summer I worked on some templates and chose four designs to make up into kits including these templates, two sizes of each. Unicorn, Cat, Highland Cow and Love Heart. I’ve recently, over the past couple of months, added four Christmas designs too. Christmas Tree and Star and Candy Cane and Snowman.

I’ve taken these to a couple of craft fairs to test the water and I’m pleased to say that they sold quite well so it’s something that I’m going to expand on in the new year with new template designs.

If there’s any that you’d like me to make then just let me know in the comments.

Currently the small kits are £5 and the large ones are £10, available from my etsy shop

etsy.com/uk/shop/purplefayeshop

There are also a couple of each available to buy in Wakefield from The Picture Box Gallery (near the Bull Ring and Trinity Walk, across the road from Yorkshire Bank)

 

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Let me know what you think in the comments.

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk