How to Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your highland cow 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on. In this case I’m showing you a few versions as it’s one of my oldest designs, and best sellers. It’s also one of my favourites that I like to show at artist demonstrations and workshops as I think it shows the technique off nicely, especially how I use modroc to create texture.

I start by drawing the highland cow design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that, following my instructions. In early versions, which you can see here, I include the eyes up until the modroc stage as I felt that it was important that even though you couldn’t see them behind the hair/fur that they still were there. But over the course of making various versions of them I came to realise that actually they aren’t neccesary, so that’s why they aren’t included in your template.

Next I cut out the design. In some versions, and in your instructions I get you to use more cardboard shapes to create the 3D layers, but with this one I just used the one piece of cardboard and created the 3D layers by overlapping the edges (apart from the eyes).

It is this cardboard stage that makes them really 3D but because it is cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage is applying the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers.

I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To create the highland cow’s hair/fur there are a few techniques to try, the main ones that I’ve found to be effective are scrunching and rolling. Both ways mean using more modroc once the whole shape is covered smooth so keep this in mind when you’re cutting your large piece of modroc down to size. Keep the offcuts to use to create your hair/fur texture. Scrunching means you use different sized pieces and once they’re wet you scrunch them on top of the smoothed modroc you previously applied. This creates a wrinkled effect. The next technique I’ve called rolling as it involves cutting thin strips of modroc and rolling them into sausage shapes before placing them on top of the previously applied modroc. You can also use your thumb/finger nail to gently score grooves/lines into the drying modroc too. Once you’re happy with the texture you’ve created it’s then time to leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used brown, orange, yellow, white, green, and black.

I started by painting the whole of the highland cow white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body brown and the feet, horns and nose a light brown, by mixing the white and brown together. I painted in the nostrils with black and added some white highlights to the feet, nose and horns. I then used the orange, yellow, brown and white to mix in different ways on the hair/fur until I was happy with how it looked. Finally, I mixed a light green, as a suggestion of grass, to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your mermaid 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the mermaid design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I then cut out the design and made another layer for the face, it’s just another piece of cardboard cut into a circle the same as the one in the original design, and raised the end of the tail by drawing round it onto another piece of card and placing it underneath the original.

I used the rounded end of a pencil to push in the eyes, then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Finally I use two small squares of modroc to make the shell bra by rolling them into a ball when wet then smushing them into place. Then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), orange, yellow, green, blue, black and silver.

I started by painting the whole of the mermaid white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and torso pink, the hair orange and then once it was dry painted in yellow highlights. I painted the tail turquoise, by mixing the green with a bit of blue and white, then added a bit more blue to the mix to paint in the scales. White was used for the eyes, necklace and shell bra, with silver for the shell bra details.

Next was black for the eyes, nose, mouth and bellybutton and a bit of red/pink for the blush cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Stegosaurus Dinosaur 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the stegosaurus dinosaur design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. In the step-by-step instructions I have simplified things slightly but if you want to follow how I made this one I started by cutting out the whole shape from the cardboard and then cut out an eye shape piece.

I pressed down on the legs and tail to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far as the rest, I also did around the underside of the belly so it looked more rounded. Finally, I squashed every other backplate, so that some stood out more than the others and then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Then I leave it to dry

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, green, yellow, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the stegosaurus dinosaur white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body green, painted the eye black and added yellow spots. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting (rectangle version)

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your Unicorn 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

Using the template I created I started by cutting it out and drawing round it onto the cardboard. I then cut the head/mane off of the template and used this to cut out another cardboard shape. To finish the cardboard stage I cut out the eye and placed all the cardboard cut out shapes onto the blank canvas, stuck them down with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry. It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to.

Once it’s all covered, including the sides where it meets the canvas, I then use extra bits on top of the hair/mane and tail to give it more texture. I did this by scrunching/ruffling it up and using my thumbnail, once it started to set, to gently score some lines into it too. You could also try cutting strips, wetting them and rolling them into sausages then placing them on top. To give a kind of dreadlocks appearance.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, shiny purple, gold, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the unicorn white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the horn gold and the hair/mane and tail in the shiny purple, I mixed a light grey with the black and white to add some shading details to the legs, head and horn. I used the black to add the details on the face (eyes, nose and mouth) then I finished it off by mixing a light blue and painting the canvas background with it.

So now you know how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How Yorkshire Artist Purple Faye made the commissioned 3D Acrylic Painting of the American Office Building

In this blog post I’m going to show you how I made this commissioned 3D acrylic painting. The commission was to make a 3D acrylic painting version of a watercolour of the office building featured in the American version of The Office TV show. The significance of this watercolour is that it’s painted by one of the characters, Pam Beesly, in the show.

When I was first contacted about this commission I had to get my head around the fact that I’d firstly be doing a building, which are tricky because of the precision involved with the straight lines and propotions, secondly it’s a copy of someone elses work in a different medium so thirdly I’d have to tranlate the traits of the water colour painting into my own 3D acrylic painting style.

I enjoy a challenge though so was more than happy to take it on. Here’s how I did it:

Working from the picture that the customer sent me I started by drawing out the basic outline onto the cardboard, then cut it out and layered it up so some parts stuck out more than others.

 

Next I laid the dried modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in, like they use when you break your arm or leg) over the cardboard and cut it to size before dunking it in some water than smoothing it over the cardboard.

 

Once the modroc was dry I sanded it down to get rid of any rough bits then painted a white base coat with acrylic paint. I then drew on top of the base coat with pencil to make it easier to know where to paint the details in.

I started with the trees/hedges as they took up quite a large area felt like an easy way to ease myself into it before tackling the trickier building with all it’s straight lines, that’s also why I did the cars first too.

I decided to paint the black lines in first then use the lighter colours of the building stonework and windows to neated them up and narrow them down. I did this so the pencil lines didn’t get lost by painting over them with the lighter colours first. It meant that I could try and keep them as straight as I could by reducing them to the right size rather than trying to add them afterwards.

Once the building had been completed I moved onto the sky and the foreground carpark.

After a few final details it was finished.

 

IMG_4818

I’m pleased to say that the customer was happy with it, they even said ” So much better than I expected it to be. I love it.” which is so lovely to hear.

If you’d like me to make you your own 3D acrylic painting, as you can see it can be of anything that is significant to you, then get it touch.

purplefaye.co.uk/contact

To see my current commission price list and more of my previous commissions go to:

purplefaye.co.uk/commissions

You can find me on social media if you fancy a chat there

facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: @purplefaye_art

Would you like to sign up to my newsletter and become a VIP?

Sign up here

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Charmander’, ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

Continuing on from when I made the original ‘Pikachu’ and ‘Eevee’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings, here, I decided to make some more and it made sense to me that the next ones should be the starter Pokemon from the first generation. So here is how I made ‘Charmander’, Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’

If you’d like to make your own I have kits available for only £5 and £10 here

Charmander here, Bulbasaur here, Squirtle here.

Here’s how I made them:

I started by drawing the design directly onto the cardboard, I then cut the cardboard out and made it into 3D layers. Once these had been stuck onto the blank canvases I covered each one in modroc(bandages with plaster of Paris in them) and painted with acrylic paints when the modroc was dry.

Here’s a more in depth look at each one, which you can use to help you when you’re making your own with one of my kits. Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

If you need any more help or have any questions get in touch

All of the originals are available for sale, ‘Charmander’ found his forever home at Christmas but ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ are still looking for theirs, only £50 each.

Plus I have cards available too for only £2

Shop Now

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the ‘Baby George’ 3D acrylic painting commission

Last year I had the pleasure of making a 3D acrylic painting of 3 month old baby George.

George’s father, Alex, contacted me to make it for his wife, Mellissa, for her 30th birthday. Because Mellissa is blind Alex wanted me to make him one of my 3D acrylic paintings because it would be tactile for her to touch and experience rather than a flat photograph.

He sent me a selection of photographs before deciding, after some discussions with me on which would make a good 3D acrylic painting, on the one that he’d like me to work from.

The one he chose actually ended up being a digital photo taken of a physical photo in a frame, which could have been problematic in terms of reflections and colour distortions but thankfully it wasn’t too bad.

So here is how I made it starting by drawing it directly onto the cardboard so I could cut it out and make it 3D by layering the cardboard up. Once the cardboard layers were stuck on the blank canvas I could then apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) and leave it to dry. I then painted it with acrylic paints.

If you would like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting the same size as ‘Baby George’ (12x16inches approx 305x406mm) for only £100 get in touch as this offer is available for a limited time only.

Any questions please ask.

You can be a Purple Faye VIP by joining up here

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

PurpleFaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Eevee’ and ‘Pikachu’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

I’ve been a fan of Pokemon for a long time and I’ve been playing Pokemon Go since it came out in 2016.

I’ve been thinking about maing some fan art of it for a while but I’ve only just started making some now. I’ve started with Pikachu and Eeeve because they are the first starters in the switch game Pokemon Let’s Go (plus I’ve always liked those two characters too).

Here’s how I made them both into 3D acrylic paintings starting with the drawing on cardboard, cutting the cardboard out into layers which I then stuck together and covered with modroc (plaster of Paris in bandages) and painted with acrylic paint once the modroc was dry.

This is the ‘Eevee’:

and this is the ‘Pikachu’:

Do you have a favourite Pokemon that you’d like to see me make into a 3D acrylic painting?

I’d love to know what your favourite (or favourites are if you can’t choose just one)

Let me know here.

or leave me a comment below.

Any questions then please ask using the link above too.

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

Artist Purple Faye Art Adventure: Light Night Leeds Friday 11th October 2019

Last Friday, 11th October 2019, we went to see Light Night Leeds again. The first time I went was in 2016, which was the first year it was held on a Friday as well as Thursday (it had only been on a thursday night before then starting in 2005). You can read the blog post I wrote about that one here.

That first year I went on my own and enjoyed it so much that the next year my boyfriend wanted to come too, which you can read about here, and last year we had a family outing with my sister and nephew plus my mum and boyfriend all joining me, you can read about that one here.

A little more about Light Night Leeds 2019 taken from the website https://whatson.leeds.gov.uk/lightnight/Home

Experience Art in the Dark!

 

Light Night Leeds is the UK’s largest annual arts and light festival.

Over two incredible nights in October some of Leeds’ most recognisable indoor and outdoor spaces are transformed by spectacular artworks and captivating performances by local, national and international artists. Light Night invites people to see the city in a new light and discover over 60 free arts events across the city centre. From large-scale light projections and interactive installations, to music, dance and street performances, there is always something for everyone!

In 2019 Light Night celebrated the theme of ‘Mind, Body and Spirit’ – launching with a vibrant illuminated parade all about our dreams and imagination.

This year my mum wasn’t able to make it but my sister, nephew and boyfriend did, We parked at The Tetley (as they had reduced their parking to only £2 from 5pm onwards specially for Light Night Leeds) and we started by walking round to the docks to see ‘Voyage’ by artists Aether & Hemera which featured 100 illuminated ‘origami’ boats and ‘Shape of Light’ by Alex Webb which explored geometric arrangements of light and shadow set against an urban backdrop of granite. glass and water.

Next we popped into Leeds Minister for ‘Light Up Leeds Minister’ before making our way to the Corn Exchange where ‘Conductor” by Interplay Theatre was. When we got there the queues were quite long so even though there were sessions running every 10 minutes or so we decided not to wait and made our way to Granary Wharf instead.

At Granary Wharf was ‘Halo’ by artist Micheal Davis individual but digitally interlinked columns of ever evolving patterns of light and sound and ‘Ghost Caribou’ by Thingumajig Theatre where giant illuminated creatures, part caribou, part spirit roam a mystical world after dark accompanied by a wild herdsman. With music, song and shadow puppetsthey tell stories of lost homes, impossible migrations and seeds of hope before continuing the journey into their hautingley beautiful dream-world of the night.

Next we headed up to The Queens Hotel to see ‘The Vision’ by Ocubo.

Throughout the show, the imaginations of two characters were represented by an immersive experience into their minds. Taking the audience into a dream of endless exuberant mind landscapes through the eyes of those characters dreams.

It was while we were here that it started to rain, thankfully it didn’t last long though and by the time we got to Millennium Square to see ‘Angels of Freedom’ by OGE Group, Merav Eitan & Gaston Zahr it had almost stopped.

We had a quick look at ‘With Love’ by artist Franck Pelletier at the Town Hall which was a bright red heart that measured you and your partners Beats per Minute then played a clip from a love song based on that combined value, and then headed up to Leeds Civic Hall to see ‘Telekinetic Rumours’ by artist Pani Pawlosky. Fusing imagery, music and sound to create an immersive dreamlike story, taking us on a surrealist journey exploring the complexity of energy flow between mind, body and soul.

 

Next we went to Queen Square to see ‘Brothers and Sisters’ by artist Ron Haselden. Children from two Leeds primary schools, Richmond Hill Academy and Co-op Academy Oakwood, took part in special workshops to draw a picture of their sibling or friend and 10 were selected to be transformed into a large scale garland of LED lights.

From there we started walking back down to The Tetley, passing by Merrion gardens to see ‘Les Footballeurs’ by French artist Remi Brun. Two footballers, an attacker striking the ball and a goalkeeper diving to make a save, cleverly transmitted in a sequence of LED lights. and ‘Lightbattle X’ by VENIVIDIMULTIPLEX from the Netherlands on Briggate. Two crossed arches made of thousands of LED lights, each with a bike at it’s base which when pedalled hard pushes the beam of light to the middle as fast as possible to beat the other opponents.

Finally with only 10 minutes left of the event we made it back to The Tetley to see ‘Pleasance’ by NOVAK. This was our favourite thing of the evening and featured a 35 metre ground projection which was inspired by the forthcoming development, Aire Park, which is soon to transform the former Brewery Site.

We all enjoyed the evening, there is so much to see that if you can go for both days then you’ll have a better chance to see everything. It was also useful to have the app to show where things were as we were walking around and to have a bit of a plan of what things we wanted to get round to seeing.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this blog post as a way of seeing what you missed and maybe give you a taste of what it was like. I’m already looking forward to seeing that they come up with for next year!

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

Artist Purple Faye Moving back into Pontefract Studio

If you missed my newsletter earlier this this month then you may have missed my exciting news. ( You can sign up to get my monthly newsletter here)

I’m pleased to say that I’m going to be moving back into the first floor office space in Pearl Assurance House in Pontefract (above the Wetherspoons). I’m hoping to be moving in at the beginning of October and then I’ll be able to stay on a month by month basis as the space is still on the market so I get a month’s notice when I need to move out.

Fingers crossed I’ll be able to stay there until Christmas at least but we’ll just have to wait and see.

This will be the 3rd time I’ve been able to use this space, the first time I was in one of the smaller rooms (which you can read about here) and the second time I was able to use the big room but unfortunately I was only there for a few months (which you can read about here).

Both times I just used the space as a studio that people were able to come visit when I held open days or if they made an appointment. I also did workshops there too which were again by appointment only.

This time however I’m wanting to use the space more like the time when I had the use of an empty shop in Castleford (which you can read about here) but on a bigger scale with lots of other artists and makers work on display there for sale too alongside mine.

I’ll still use it as a studio to make new work and to display my work in, so people can pop in to see what I’m working on and how I make my 3D acrylic paintings, they can also commission me to make them their very own 3D acrylic painting and to do workshops with me to make their own 3D pictures.

The plan is for it to be more like a gallery/arts and crafts shop open to the public so they can buy directly from me and all the other artists/makers work that will be there too, I’m also hoping to put on some special one off events and offers in the run up to Christmas (if I’m still able to use the space then) to try and encourage footfall. As it’s on the first floor and there aren’t any ramps or lifts it isn’t ideal for accessability so I’m going to try and do my best to overcome these somehow.

At the moment (Thursday 19th September 2019) I’m waiting to get the keys and start moving in. Then I can contact artists/makers to invite them to join me.

If you are (and/or know) an artist/maker that would like to have your work on display for sale in this space then please get in touch purplefaye.co.uk/contact  (all arts and crafts are welcome).

 

(These photos are from when I was there last time)

I’ll let you know once I get the keys and all systems are go.

 

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

 

*EDIT*

Sadly this fell through after some issues with getting the keys and then being told that the landlord had sold the property to someone else again.