How to Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your highland cow 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on. In this case I’m showing you a few versions as it’s one of my oldest designs, and best sellers. It’s also one of my favourites that I like to show at artist demonstrations and workshops as I think it shows the technique off nicely, especially how I use modroc to create texture.

I start by drawing the highland cow design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that, following my instructions. In early versions, which you can see here, I include the eyes up until the modroc stage as I felt that it was important that even though you couldn’t see them behind the hair/fur that they still were there. But over the course of making various versions of them I came to realise that actually they aren’t neccesary, so that’s why they aren’t included in your template.

Next I cut out the design. In some versions, and in your instructions I get you to use more cardboard shapes to create the 3D layers, but with this one I just used the one piece of cardboard and created the 3D layers by overlapping the edges (apart from the eyes).

It is this cardboard stage that makes them really 3D but because it is cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage is applying the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers.

I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To create the highland cow’s hair/fur there are a few techniques to try, the main ones that I’ve found to be effective are scrunching and rolling. Both ways mean using more modroc once the whole shape is covered smooth so keep this in mind when you’re cutting your large piece of modroc down to size. Keep the offcuts to use to create your hair/fur texture. Scrunching means you use different sized pieces and once they’re wet you scrunch them on top of the smoothed modroc you previously applied. This creates a wrinkled effect. The next technique I’ve called rolling as it involves cutting thin strips of modroc and rolling them into sausage shapes before placing them on top of the previously applied modroc. You can also use your thumb/finger nail to gently score grooves/lines into the drying modroc too. Once you’re happy with the texture you’ve created it’s then time to leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used brown, orange, yellow, white, green, and black.

I started by painting the whole of the highland cow white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body brown and the feet, horns and nose a light brown, by mixing the white and brown together. I painted in the nostrils with black and added some white highlights to the feet, nose and horns. I then used the orange, yellow, brown and white to mix in different ways on the hair/fur until I was happy with how it looked. Finally, I mixed a light green, as a suggestion of grass, to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your mermaid 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the mermaid design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I then cut out the design and made another layer for the face, it’s just another piece of cardboard cut into a circle the same as the one in the original design, and raised the end of the tail by drawing round it onto another piece of card and placing it underneath the original.

I used the rounded end of a pencil to push in the eyes, then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Finally I use two small squares of modroc to make the shell bra by rolling them into a ball when wet then smushing them into place. Then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), orange, yellow, green, blue, black and silver.

I started by painting the whole of the mermaid white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and torso pink, the hair orange and then once it was dry painted in yellow highlights. I painted the tail turquoise, by mixing the green with a bit of blue and white, then added a bit more blue to the mix to paint in the scales. White was used for the eyes, necklace and shell bra, with silver for the shell bra details.

Next was black for the eyes, nose, mouth and bellybutton and a bit of red/pink for the blush cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own Ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your ballerina 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the ballerina design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I cut out the cardboard design, created an extra layer for the face and tutu, and used the rounded end of a pencil to make the eyes by pressing into the cardboard.

I pressed down on the hair, legs and arms to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far in certain places, I also ran the rounded end of the pencil round the sides of the outline, to squash them down a bit too. Finally, I stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To add some texture to the tutu I add some more modroc, on top of the piece that I’ve smoothed over the cardboard, and scrunch it up to create wrinkles then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), dark brown, orange brown, silver, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the ballerina white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and legs pink, painted the hair first with the dark brown then added orange brown highlights once it had dried. I then used white to paint in the shoes, hairband, eyes, necklace and straps for the dress. I used the silver on top of the white on the tutu, shoes and straps then added the face details with black and a bit of pink on the cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Stegosaurus Dinosaur 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the stegosaurus dinosaur design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. In the step-by-step instructions I have simplified things slightly but if you want to follow how I made this one I started by cutting out the whole shape from the cardboard and then cut out an eye shape piece.

I pressed down on the legs and tail to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far as the rest, I also did around the underside of the belly so it looked more rounded. Finally, I squashed every other backplate, so that some stood out more than the others and then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Then I leave it to dry

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, green, yellow, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the stegosaurus dinosaur white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body green, painted the eye black and added yellow spots. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting (rectangle version)

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your Unicorn 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

Using the template I created I started by cutting it out and drawing round it onto the cardboard. I then cut the head/mane off of the template and used this to cut out another cardboard shape. To finish the cardboard stage I cut out the eye and placed all the cardboard cut out shapes onto the blank canvas, stuck them down with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry. It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to.

Once it’s all covered, including the sides where it meets the canvas, I then use extra bits on top of the hair/mane and tail to give it more texture. I did this by scrunching/ruffling it up and using my thumbnail, once it started to set, to gently score some lines into it too. You could also try cutting strips, wetting them and rolling them into sausages then placing them on top. To give a kind of dreadlocks appearance.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, shiny purple, gold, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the unicorn white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the horn gold and the hair/mane and tail in the shiny purple, I mixed a light grey with the black and white to add some shading details to the legs, head and horn. I used the black to add the details on the face (eyes, nose and mouth) then I finished it off by mixing a light blue and painting the canvas background with it.

So now you know how to make your own unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, the rectangle version, using the ‘Make Your Own Unicorn 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How Yorkshire Artist Purple Faye made the commissioned 3D Acrylic Painting of the American Office Building

In this blog post I’m going to show you how I made this commissioned 3D acrylic painting. The commission was to make a 3D acrylic painting version of a watercolour of the office building featured in the American version of The Office TV show. The significance of this watercolour is that it’s painted by one of the characters, Pam Beesly, in the show.

When I was first contacted about this commission I had to get my head around the fact that I’d firstly be doing a building, which are tricky because of the precision involved with the straight lines and propotions, secondly it’s a copy of someone elses work in a different medium so thirdly I’d have to tranlate the traits of the water colour painting into my own 3D acrylic painting style.

I enjoy a challenge though so was more than happy to take it on. Here’s how I did it:

Working from the picture that the customer sent me I started by drawing out the basic outline onto the cardboard, then cut it out and layered it up so some parts stuck out more than others.

 

Next I laid the dried modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in, like they use when you break your arm or leg) over the cardboard and cut it to size before dunking it in some water than smoothing it over the cardboard.

 

Once the modroc was dry I sanded it down to get rid of any rough bits then painted a white base coat with acrylic paint. I then drew on top of the base coat with pencil to make it easier to know where to paint the details in.

I started with the trees/hedges as they took up quite a large area felt like an easy way to ease myself into it before tackling the trickier building with all it’s straight lines, that’s also why I did the cars first too.

I decided to paint the black lines in first then use the lighter colours of the building stonework and windows to neated them up and narrow them down. I did this so the pencil lines didn’t get lost by painting over them with the lighter colours first. It meant that I could try and keep them as straight as I could by reducing them to the right size rather than trying to add them afterwards.

Once the building had been completed I moved onto the sky and the foreground carpark.

After a few final details it was finished.

 

IMG_4818

I’m pleased to say that the customer was happy with it, they even said ” So much better than I expected it to be. I love it.” which is so lovely to hear.

If you’d like me to make you your own 3D acrylic painting, as you can see it can be of anything that is significant to you, then get it touch.

purplefaye.co.uk/contact

To see my current commission price list and more of my previous commissions go to:

purplefaye.co.uk/commissions

You can find me on social media if you fancy a chat there

facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: @purplefaye_art

Would you like to sign up to my newsletter and become a VIP?

Sign up here

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Charmander’, ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

Continuing on from when I made the original ‘Pikachu’ and ‘Eevee’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings, here, I decided to make some more and it made sense to me that the next ones should be the starter Pokemon from the first generation. So here is how I made ‘Charmander’, Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’

If you’d like to make your own I have kits available for only £5 and £10 here

Charmander here, Bulbasaur here, Squirtle here.

Here’s how I made them:

I started by drawing the design directly onto the cardboard, I then cut the cardboard out and made it into 3D layers. Once these had been stuck onto the blank canvases I covered each one in modroc(bandages with plaster of Paris in them) and painted with acrylic paints when the modroc was dry.

Here’s a more in depth look at each one, which you can use to help you when you’re making your own with one of my kits. Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

If you need any more help or have any questions get in touch

All of the originals are available for sale, ‘Charmander’ found his forever home at Christmas but ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ are still looking for theirs, only £50 each.

Plus I have cards available too for only £2

Shop Now

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made Alex’s ‘Targaryen Sigil’ (from Game of Thrones) 3D acrylic painting

Alex asked me if I’d be able to make him a 3D acrylic painting of the Targaryen Sigil from Game of Thrones. I said that it would be fiddly but yeah I’d be able to make it for him. This shows how I did it (it was as fiddle as I was expecting it to be but I enjoyed the challenge)

If you’d like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then get in touch.

With this one being so fiddly I jumped straight in with cutting the design out of cardboard using a craft knife, rather than by drawing it all out first like I usually do, this was mainly to speed up the process.

You can see in the photos how I used a combination of print outs and having the image on a tablet to work from to make sure that I got everything in the right place.

I used one layer of thick cardboard to make the image stick out but not too much, giving it a more subtle embossed look.

Once the cardboard was all cut out and positioned on the canvas I then stuck it down and began the equally fiddly job of putting the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) on top.

Once everything was covered and all the gaps were filled I let the modroc dry before I could then begin painting it with acrylic paints.

The first coat of paint was the easiest stage of the whole process as it was just a black base coat all over, in all the nooks and crannies.

Then once that had dried I could start painting in the red dragon and all the extra black and white details before finishing it off by painting in the white writing.

As I said at the start I knew this was going to be a challenging commission because it was so fiddly, so when I finished it I was pleased with the outcome and was even more pleased that Alex was so complimentary about it once he had seen it too.

If you’d like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then get in touch.

Take care.

Till next time.

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the ‘Theo + Dumbo’ 3D acrylic painting

I’ve made a few name signs simialar in style to this in the past but it’s not something that I make much of now. But Theo’s special day was coming up and I wanted to make him something to commemorate it.

I started by drawing out the shapes for the letters, I used the first letter to help me make the rest in the same style and proportions, I then losely positioned them on the canvas to help me gauge how big to make the Dumbo to go alongside.

Next I sketched out a few different sized Dumbos on paper before selecting the one that I felt fitted best with the letters, I then used this paper drawing as a template to cut out the shapes I needed to make it 3D out of cardboard.

Once I was happy with the positioning of the cardboard on the canvas I then stuck it down and left it to dry.

After the glue had dried I could then start cutting out the dry modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) to the shapes that I needed to cover the cardboard and then dunking each one in water (with a bit of glue mixed in to help it stick) wringing it out and smoothing it over the top of the cardboard until it was all thoroughly covered.

This was then left to dry before I could begin to paint it with acrylic paints.

I started by painting the Dumbo a light grey, then painted in the details, I then painted the whole of the background including the letters a light blue colour and added some white clouds to make it look like Dumbo was flying in the sky. I made the letters white so they stood out against the blue and added to the cloud effect, I felt like they didn’t quite stand out enough just white so I then added some silver highlights and a black outline which I think finished it off nicely.

I don’t have many of these sized canvases left but if you would like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then contact me.

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the commisisoned Spitfire 3D acrylic painting

As it’s coming up to Fathers Day on the 16th on June I thought I’d show you how I made this 3D acrylic painting that was commissioned as a Fathers day gift a few years ago, while I was in my shop in Castleford.

This Spitfire is the actual model, MK11A P8098/PRZ Enfield Spitfire, that his father used to make. He wanted it to be based on the image that he had in his book that had all the different Spitfire models in to use, which is why it looks the way it does. A flat diagram/illustration made into a painting rather than an actual 3D plane.

The customer chose to have it made on a 16x20inch canvas (approx 30x40cm) so I started by selecting a piece of cardboard that would suit being used on a canvas of that size. I was a bit concerned about it being a long thin shape getting lost in the large space of the canvas but after some tests I managed to make it work and began to draw out the design onto the cardboard.

I drew quite a lot of the details in, more than I really needed to at this stage but I wanted to make sure that it would all look ok at that size, not too squashed or out of proportion, before I got further along in the process.

Once I was happy with the outline design I could then start to think about how to make it 3D. I started by cutting out the main outline and then used some of the offcuts to make certain areas more 3D than others by layering it up. The main body has 2 layers then the closest front and back wings and cockpit got another layer to make them stand out further from the main body. So overall there are 3 layers of cardboard making this 3D acrylic painting.

Once the cardboard had been stuck together onto the blank canvas I then put the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) on top. I cut it to shape first when it was dry then dunked it into a water and PVA/craft glue solution to help it stick onto the cardboard. Once it was fully wet I then wrung the excess water out and placed it on top of the cardboard, smoothing it out so it covered it fully. (It wouldn’t look like metal if it had a fluffy texture like a dog or highland cow). Any little gaps around the sides I filled with small pieces of modroc.

After the modroc had been left to dry completely I gave it a sand down to give myself a smooth surface to paint on, quick wipe down to remove the dust and then the painting with acrylic paints could begin. Starting with a dark green for the base coat then starting to paint the markings in, gradually building up the details, adding the shadows and highlights then finally a light blue background as selected by the customer.

 

When the customer came in to collect the piece they were very happy with it, the smile on their face was so great to see and made me smile too, it’s such a lovely feeling seeing how much someone likes what I’ve made.

If seeing this has given you an idea for a 3D acrylic painting you’d like me to make you, either for yourself or to give as a gift for someone else then get in touch.

Take a look on my etsy shop at my selection of Fathers Day cards available to buy now.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

 

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