How to Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your mermaid 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the mermaid design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I then cut out the design and made another layer for the face, it’s just another piece of cardboard cut into a circle the same as the one in the original design, and raised the end of the tail by drawing round it onto another piece of card and placing it underneath the original.

I used the rounded end of a pencil to push in the eyes, then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Finally I use two small squares of modroc to make the shell bra by rolling them into a ball when wet then smushing them into place. Then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), orange, yellow, green, blue, black and silver.

I started by painting the whole of the mermaid white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and torso pink, the hair orange and then once it was dry painted in yellow highlights. I painted the tail turquoise, by mixing the green with a bit of blue and white, then added a bit more blue to the mix to paint in the scales. White was used for the eyes, necklace and shell bra, with silver for the shell bra details.

Next was black for the eyes, nose, mouth and bellybutton and a bit of red/pink for the blush cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own Ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your ballerina 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the ballerina design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I cut out the cardboard design, created an extra layer for the face and tutu, and used the rounded end of a pencil to make the eyes by pressing into the cardboard.

I pressed down on the hair, legs and arms to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far in certain places, I also ran the rounded end of the pencil round the sides of the outline, to squash them down a bit too. Finally, I stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To add some texture to the tutu I add some more modroc, on top of the piece that I’ve smoothed over the cardboard, and scrunch it up to create wrinkles then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), dark brown, orange brown, silver, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the ballerina white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and legs pink, painted the hair first with the dark brown then added orange brown highlights once it had dried. I then used white to paint in the shoes, hairband, eyes, necklace and straps for the dress. I used the silver on top of the white on the tutu, shoes and straps then added the face details with black and a bit of pink on the cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Stegosaurus Dinosaur 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the stegosaurus dinosaur design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. In the step-by-step instructions I have simplified things slightly but if you want to follow how I made this one I started by cutting out the whole shape from the cardboard and then cut out an eye shape piece.

I pressed down on the legs and tail to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far as the rest, I also did around the underside of the belly so it looked more rounded. Finally, I squashed every other backplate, so that some stood out more than the others and then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left them to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Then I leave it to dry

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I only used white, green, yellow, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the stegosaurus dinosaur white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body green, painted the eye black and added yellow spots. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own stegosaurus dinosaur 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Stegosaurus 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How artist Purple Faye made Alex’s ‘Targaryen Sigil’ (from Game of Thrones) 3D acrylic painting

Alex asked me if I’d be able to make him a 3D acrylic painting of the Targaryen Sigil from Game of Thrones. I said that it would be fiddly but yeah I’d be able to make it for him. This shows how I did it (it was as fiddle as I was expecting it to be but I enjoyed the challenge)

If you’d like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then get in touch.

With this one being so fiddly I jumped straight in with cutting the design out of cardboard using a craft knife, rather than by drawing it all out first like I usually do, this was mainly to speed up the process.

You can see in the photos how I used a combination of print outs and having the image on a tablet to work from to make sure that I got everything in the right place.

I used one layer of thick cardboard to make the image stick out but not too much, giving it a more subtle embossed look.

Once the cardboard was all cut out and positioned on the canvas I then stuck it down and began the equally fiddly job of putting the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) on top.

Once everything was covered and all the gaps were filled I let the modroc dry before I could then begin painting it with acrylic paints.

The first coat of paint was the easiest stage of the whole process as it was just a black base coat all over, in all the nooks and crannies.

Then once that had dried I could start painting in the red dragon and all the extra black and white details before finishing it off by painting in the white writing.

As I said at the start I knew this was going to be a challenging commission because it was so fiddly, so when I finished it I was pleased with the outcome and was even more pleased that Alex was so complimentary about it once he had seen it too.

If you’d like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then get in touch.

Take care.

Till next time.

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Eevee’ and ‘Pikachu’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

I’ve been a fan of Pokemon for a long time and I’ve been playing Pokemon Go since it came out in 2016.

I’ve been thinking about maing some fan art of it for a while but I’ve only just started making some now. I’ve started with Pikachu and Eeeve because they are the first starters in the switch game Pokemon Let’s Go (plus I’ve always liked those two characters too).

Here’s how I made them both into 3D acrylic paintings starting with the drawing on cardboard, cutting the cardboard out into layers which I then stuck together and covered with modroc (plaster of Paris in bandages) and painted with acrylic paint once the modroc was dry.

This is the ‘Eevee’:

and this is the ‘Pikachu’:

Do you have a favourite Pokemon that you’d like to see me make into a 3D acrylic painting?

I’d love to know what your favourite (or favourites are if you can’t choose just one)

Let me know here.

or leave me a comment below.

Any questions then please ask using the link above too.

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How to make your own Love Hearts 3D picture like artist Purple Faye.

Earlier this year I took part in Holmfirth Artweek artist demonstrations, 7th-13th July 2019, this time I showed you how to make your very own Love Hearts 3D picture using one of my kits. This is one of my more simple but effective designs which would be ideal for an absolute beginner to make.

 

In the pictures below you can see how I used the template included in the kit to draw out the cardboard layers (the instructions included in the kit tell you which bits you need to cut out), these were then stuck together on the canvas and left to dry.

Next I cut the dry modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) to size before I dunked it in a water and PVA/craft glue solution, wrung out the water and spread it out on top of the cardboard love hearts.

This is the stage that the kit gets you too, you then need to leave it to dry. (Mine had from Friday afternoon until Saturday morning in warm temperatures, yours may need longer or you may need to use a hairdryer to help speed things up a bit.)

While you’re waiting for it to dry you can get your paints ready that you’re going to use. I use acrylic paints and all I needed for this was black, white and red (I mixed the pink colour myself using the red and white). I started by painting the large heart in red, I then mixed my pink and used that on the smaller heart once the red was dry. Once the pink was dry I used white to add the highlights in the corners (as shown on the template) and then finished it off with a black background.

etsy.com/uk/shop/purplefayeshop

If you have already bought one of my kits thank you, if you haven’t got one yet but would like to then they are available from my etsy shop here or you can contact me directly here.

If you require any more help/advice then please contact me.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

 

How artist Purple Faye made the ‘Medium Daffodil’ 3D acrylic painting

Here’s how I made my ‘Medium Daffodil’ 3D acrylic painting. (I also made the ‘Smaller Daffodil’ at the same time as I made this, which you can see the making of in a separate blog post here.)

I started by getting a cardboard box and cutting out a piece that was roughly the same size as the blank canvas I was going to use. I then drew the daffodil design freehand onto the cardboard, using some photographs as a reference.

Once the drawing was complete I cut out all along the outside of the main daffodil shape and all around the head of the flower. I then placed the stem shape onto the blank canvas and laid the flower head shape on top of it so that the two overlapped. I created a more 3D effect by wedging some offcuts of cardboard underneath one side of the flower head shape and made a ring shape to go in the middle of the flower head shape too.

All the cardboard layers were then stuck together and onto the blank canvas using PVA/craft glue, once the glue had dried I then covered the cardboard design with modroc (plaster of Paris impregnated bandages) which again was left to dry before I could start painting it with acrylic paints.

Originally I was going to make it a yellow daffodil but once I’d tried it I decided that the ‘Smaller Daffodil’ looked better yellow and that white and orange would be more effective with this ‘Medium Daffodil’. Once I had painted the stem green I painted the background a dark purple (as it’s a complimentary colour to the orange and green) and the dark colour should help the white stand out better. However once it had dried I felt like it wasn’t quite working so I tried adding the lighter colour to help it all pop and was happy with the result.

The finished piece is available to buy now from my etsy shop.

Don’t forget to get 10% off in my etsy shop by getting the discount code here.

etsy.com/uk/shop/purplefayeshop

Contact me here.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

Artist Purple Faye Art Adventure: Light Night Leeds Friday 5th October 2018

“Light Night is one of the UK’s largest annual arts and light festivals, and over two special nights some of Leeds’ most recognisable indoor and outdoor spaces will be transformed by spectacular artworks and captivating performances by local, national and international artists.

This year we celebrate the themes of progress and innovation, kicking off with a vibrant illuminated parade celebrating 100 years of social change since (some) women got the vote.

On Light Night you will discover over 60 arts events across ten zones in the city centre; from large-scale light projections and interactive artworks, to music, dance and street performances.

Among the highlights this year will be an incredible abstract digital projection that will use the historic stonework of Leeds Civic Hall as its canvas, while elsewhere giant illuminated humanoids will appear on rooftops and public spaces around the city centre.

The Leeds Library, one of the city’s hidden treasures, will be the backdrop for a celebration of Leeds suffragettes, Leonora Cohen and Mary Gawthorpe, and a fearsome and fiery dragon will be making an appearance on the Queens Hotel! So, bring your family and friends along to experience a fantastic festival atmosphere and see the city in a new light!”whatson.leeds.gov.uk/lightnight

This year was the 14th edition of Light Night Leeds which again took place over 2 days, Thursday the 4th and Friday the 5th of October 6pm-11pm. It was only the 3rd year that I’ve attended the event. My first year, in 2016, was also the first year that it become a 2 day/night event, previously it only took place over a single evening.

My first time at Light NIght Leeds was on my own in 2016, which you can read about here. My second time attending was last year, 2017, and my boyfriend came with me for his first experience of the event, read about that one here. This year, 2018, there was a little gang of us. My boyfriend came again and coming for their first time was my mum, my younger sister and my little 3 month old nephew.

We were able to attend the event on Friday, as I had the previous 2 years too, unfortunately the weather wasn’t as dry as it had been on the Thursday but we weren’t going to let it stop us. (It did mean that I didn’t take quite so many photos though.)

We started with the Tai Shani ‘Semiramis’ exhibition at The Tetley, which is a gallery in the former Tetley brewery building on Hunslet Road.

We then walked up to the Headrow, passing by one of the ‘Fantastic Planet’ giant humanoids by Amanda Parer and the ‘Spectral’ rainbow lights by KASJO studio in St John the Evangelist Church gardens.

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Making our way to the First Direct Arena to see the special light show on the building, via the ‘Sound Of Infinity’ walk in infinity mirror by Kira Zhigalina, then crossing over to Queen Square to see ‘Dr Kronovator’s Fire Laboratory’ by Emergency Exit Arts.

Next stop was Millenium Square to see ‘Chaos’ by Hotaru Visual Guerrilla projected onto the building.

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As we headed down towards Queens Hotel to see the dragon projected onto the building we passed through ‘Bouquet D’abat Jour (Lampshaeds Bouquet)’ by Tilt.

We finished our Light Night adventure by seeing ‘Moon Beam’ by Cirque Bijou at the Trinity Shopping centre.

I shot a few videos which I’ll be posting on social media, I can’t post them on here, so if you’d like to see them find me on Instagram and Facebook. I’m /purplefaye.co.uk on both.

I really enjoyed the evening, even if the weather could have been better. I’m already looking forward to going again next year.

Hopefully this has given you an idea of what Light Night Leeds is like.

Till next time.

Take care

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How to make your own square Unicorn 3D picture like artist Purple Faye

I wanted to have a finished ‘Unicorn’ 3D acrylic painting to show people who are interested in my kits, when I do craft fairs etc, so I thought it would be helpful to make it using one of the kits I’d made so i can show you how I do it.

If you’ve bought a kit from me to make your own square unicorn 3D picture then hopefully you should find this useful if you get stuck when making yours.

If you don’t have one of my kits yet but you’d like one then you can buy them from my etsy shop

 

 

I used the template to get the shape and followed my instructions of which bits to cut out to make it 3D. Once all my cardboard layers were stuck together on the canvas I then covered it in modroc, adding texture as per my instructions. I then used acrylic paints, mixing my own pastel colours to get the shades that I wanted, to paint it once the modroc was completely dry.

This video shows how I put the modroc on:

This video show’s how I used acrylic paints to paint it.

 

If you need any help with your kits or if there’s a kit that you would like me to make for you then please get in touch.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

Making of the African Elephant 3D Acrylic Painting by artist Purple Faye

Here’s the step by step photos of how I made my 3D acrylic painting of an African Elephant.

I started by drawing it out on the cardboard, then cutting it out and laying it up to make it 3D. I then put the modroc on, using it to create the wrinkled texture. Once it had dried I then started painting it with acrylic paints. I started by painting the shadows so I could map out where they were going to be, I then painted over it all with a mid tone grey, the black was still slightly visible through the grey. It was then a case of painting in all the tones and details until I finally painted the background in a light peachy colour to compliment the warm grey tones of the elephant.

I painted this while I was in my pop up shop in Castleford in 2013, you can read more about my time there in the blog post I wrote about it here.

It was the first time I’d attempted doing anything like this on this scale and I was pleased with how it turned out. I’m still really proud of it which is why I use it on my promo material, leaflets, business cards, etc, as a way to show the process I use to make my 3D acrylic paintings.

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk