How to Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your highland cow 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on. In this case I’m showing you a few versions as it’s one of my oldest designs, and best sellers. It’s also one of my favourites that I like to show at artist demonstrations and workshops as I think it shows the technique off nicely, especially how I use modroc to create texture.

I start by drawing the highland cow design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that, following my instructions. In early versions, which you can see here, I include the eyes up until the modroc stage as I felt that it was important that even though you couldn’t see them behind the hair/fur that they still were there. But over the course of making various versions of them I came to realise that actually they aren’t neccesary, so that’s why they aren’t included in your template.

Next I cut out the design. In some versions, and in your instructions I get you to use more cardboard shapes to create the 3D layers, but with this one I just used the one piece of cardboard and created the 3D layers by overlapping the edges (apart from the eyes).

It is this cardboard stage that makes them really 3D but because it is cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage is applying the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers.

I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To create the highland cow’s hair/fur there are a few techniques to try, the main ones that I’ve found to be effective are scrunching and rolling. Both ways mean using more modroc once the whole shape is covered smooth so keep this in mind when you’re cutting your large piece of modroc down to size. Keep the offcuts to use to create your hair/fur texture. Scrunching means you use different sized pieces and once they’re wet you scrunch them on top of the smoothed modroc you previously applied. This creates a wrinkled effect. The next technique I’ve called rolling as it involves cutting thin strips of modroc and rolling them into sausage shapes before placing them on top of the previously applied modroc. You can also use your thumb/finger nail to gently score grooves/lines into the drying modroc too. Once you’re happy with the texture you’ve created it’s then time to leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used brown, orange, yellow, white, green, and black.

I started by painting the whole of the highland cow white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the body brown and the feet, horns and nose a light brown, by mixing the white and brown together. I painted in the nostrils with black and added some white highlights to the feet, nose and horns. I then used the orange, yellow, brown and white to mix in different ways on the hair/fur until I was happy with how it looked. Finally, I mixed a light green, as a suggestion of grass, to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own highland cow 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Highland Cow 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your mermaid 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the mermaid design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I then cut out the design and made another layer for the face, it’s just another piece of cardboard cut into a circle the same as the one in the original design, and raised the end of the tail by drawing round it onto another piece of card and placing it underneath the original.

I used the rounded end of a pencil to push in the eyes, then stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water.

When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. Finally I use two small squares of modroc to make the shell bra by rolling them into a ball when wet then smushing them into place. Then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), orange, yellow, green, blue, black and silver.

I started by painting the whole of the mermaid white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and torso pink, the hair orange and then once it was dry painted in yellow highlights. I painted the tail turquoise, by mixing the green with a bit of blue and white, then added a bit more blue to the mix to paint in the scales. White was used for the eyes, necklace and shell bra, with silver for the shell bra details.

Next was black for the eyes, nose, mouth and bellybutton and a bit of red/pink for the blush cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own mermaid 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own mermaid 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How to Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture like artist Purple Faye’s Original 3D Acrylic Painting

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to make your own Ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own Ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

First, you need to buy the kit here

Your kit contains step-by-step instructions to talk you through the cardboard and modroc stages of making your ballerina 3D picture. However, as the kits don’t contain paints I don’t go into any detail as to how you might like to paint it. You can enjoy making it up for yourself but just in case you’d like some guidance here’s how I made the original 3D acrylic painting that the kits are based on.

I started by drawing the ballerina design directly onto the piece of cardboard, you have the design already drawn for you by me in the form of the template, so all you need to do is cut it out and use that. I cut out the cardboard design, created an extra layer for the face and tutu, and used the rounded end of a pencil to make the eyes by pressing into the cardboard.

I pressed down on the hair, legs and arms to squash them, so they didn’t stand out as far in certain places, I also ran the rounded end of the pencil round the sides of the outline, to squash them down a bit too. Finally, I stuck it all down onto the blank canvas with PVA/craft glue and left it to dry.

It is this stage that makes them really 3D but because it’s cardboard it isn’t as heavy as people think it will be when they think it’s solid plaster being used.

The next stage was to apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) over the cardboard layers. I did this by getting my piece of modroc and cutting it to the rough shape of what I needed, keeping in mind that it shrinks when wet so it’d need to be a bit bigger plus have some overlap to go round the edges too. I cut it when it’s dry as it’s easier to cut when it’s dry rather than wet. Plus once it gets wet that’s it you have to use it, so if you don’t need to use it all then you can’t save any offcuts for later.

I wet the modroc by filling a container (an old Tupperware dish) with cold water (using cold water slows down the setting time so you have longer to use it, warm water speeds it up) and a squirt of PVA/craft glue then dunking each piece of cut out modroc separately to try and reduce the amount of scrunching up in the water. When removing the modroc from the water I try to wring out as much water as I can without distorting the shape too much. I then place it on top of the cardboard and start to smooth it out so it covers all the area that I need it to. I continue to do this until the whole cardboard shape is completely covered. To add some texture to the tutu I add some more modroc, on top of the piece that I’ve smoothed over the cardboard, and scrunch it up to create wrinkles then I leave it to dry.

When the modroc is setting and still wet it looks a lightish grey colour and gets more white the drier it gets. I try to leave mine overnight at least to make sure it’s fully dry, it dries faster the warmer it is so if you wanted to speed up the process you can use a hairdryer on it.

Once it’s dry I give mine a quick sand with some fine sandpaper, just to get rid of any rough bits, then I start to paint it with acrylic paints. You can use whatever paints you have available though. For this one I used white, red (to mix pink), dark brown, orange brown, silver, blue and black.

I started by painting the whole of the ballerina white, once as the base coat to seal the modroc and then another top coat to make sure it was fully covered. Next I painted the face, arms and legs pink, painted the hair first with the dark brown then added orange brown highlights once it had dried. I then used white to paint in the shoes, hairband, eyes, necklace and straps for the dress. I used the silver on top of the white on the tutu, shoes and straps then added the face details with black and a bit of pink on the cheeks. Finally, I mixed a light blue to paint the canvas background with.

So now you know how to make your own ballerina 3D picture like artist Purple Faye’s (me) original 3D acrylic painting, using the ‘Make Your Own ballerina 3D Picture Kit’ by Yorkshire artist Purple Faye.

Enjoy making your kit and if you do get stuck contact me for help.

Find me on social media:

Facebook: facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: instagram.com/purplefaye_art

Purple Faye x

How Yorkshire Artist Purple Faye made the commissioned 3D Acrylic Painting of the American Office Building

In this blog post I’m going to show you how I made this commissioned 3D acrylic painting. The commission was to make a 3D acrylic painting version of a watercolour of the office building featured in the American version of The Office TV show. The significance of this watercolour is that it’s painted by one of the characters, Pam Beesly, in the show.

When I was first contacted about this commission I had to get my head around the fact that I’d firstly be doing a building, which are tricky because of the precision involved with the straight lines and propotions, secondly it’s a copy of someone elses work in a different medium so thirdly I’d have to tranlate the traits of the water colour painting into my own 3D acrylic painting style.

I enjoy a challenge though so was more than happy to take it on. Here’s how I did it:

Working from the picture that the customer sent me I started by drawing out the basic outline onto the cardboard, then cut it out and layered it up so some parts stuck out more than others.

 

Next I laid the dried modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in, like they use when you break your arm or leg) over the cardboard and cut it to size before dunking it in some water than smoothing it over the cardboard.

 

Once the modroc was dry I sanded it down to get rid of any rough bits then painted a white base coat with acrylic paint. I then drew on top of the base coat with pencil to make it easier to know where to paint the details in.

I started with the trees/hedges as they took up quite a large area felt like an easy way to ease myself into it before tackling the trickier building with all it’s straight lines, that’s also why I did the cars first too.

I decided to paint the black lines in first then use the lighter colours of the building stonework and windows to neated them up and narrow them down. I did this so the pencil lines didn’t get lost by painting over them with the lighter colours first. It meant that I could try and keep them as straight as I could by reducing them to the right size rather than trying to add them afterwards.

Once the building had been completed I moved onto the sky and the foreground carpark.

After a few final details it was finished.

 

IMG_4818

I’m pleased to say that the customer was happy with it, they even said ” So much better than I expected it to be. I love it.” which is so lovely to hear.

If you’d like me to make you your own 3D acrylic painting, as you can see it can be of anything that is significant to you, then get it touch.

purplefaye.co.uk/contact

To see my current commission price list and more of my previous commissions go to:

purplefaye.co.uk/commissions

You can find me on social media if you fancy a chat there

facebook.com/purplefaye.co.uk

Instagram: @purplefaye_art

Would you like to sign up to my newsletter and become a VIP?

Sign up here

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the original ‘Charmander’, ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings

Continuing on from when I made the original ‘Pikachu’ and ‘Eevee’ Pokemon inspired 3D acrylic paintings, here, I decided to make some more and it made sense to me that the next ones should be the starter Pokemon from the first generation. So here is how I made ‘Charmander’, Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’

If you’d like to make your own I have kits available for only £5 and £10 here

Charmander here, Bulbasaur here, Squirtle here.

Here’s how I made them:

I started by drawing the design directly onto the cardboard, I then cut the cardboard out and made it into 3D layers. Once these had been stuck onto the blank canvases I covered each one in modroc(bandages with plaster of Paris in them) and painted with acrylic paints when the modroc was dry.

Here’s a more in depth look at each one, which you can use to help you when you’re making your own with one of my kits. Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

Charmander Kit, Bulbasaur Kit, Squirtle Kit.

If you need any more help or have any questions get in touch

All of the originals are available for sale, ‘Charmander’ found his forever home at Christmas but ‘Bulbasaur’ and ‘Squirtle’ are still looking for theirs, only £50 each.

Plus I have cards available too for only £2

Shop Now

 

Till next time,

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How artist Purple Faye made the ‘Baby George’ 3D acrylic painting commission

Last year I had the pleasure of making a 3D acrylic painting of 3 month old baby George.

George’s father, Alex, contacted me to make it for his wife, Mellissa, for her 30th birthday. Because Mellissa is blind Alex wanted me to make him one of my 3D acrylic paintings because it would be tactile for her to touch and experience rather than a flat photograph.

He sent me a selection of photographs before deciding, after some discussions with me on which would make a good 3D acrylic painting, on the one that he’d like me to work from.

The one he chose actually ended up being a digital photo taken of a physical photo in a frame, which could have been problematic in terms of reflections and colour distortions but thankfully it wasn’t too bad.

So here is how I made it starting by drawing it directly onto the cardboard so I could cut it out and make it 3D by layering the cardboard up. Once the cardboard layers were stuck on the blank canvas I could then apply the modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) and leave it to dry. I then painted it with acrylic paints.

If you would like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting the same size as ‘Baby George’ (12x16inches approx 305x406mm) for only £100 get in touch as this offer is available for a limited time only.

Any questions please ask.

You can be a Purple Faye VIP by joining up here

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

PurpleFaye.co.uk

Artist Purple Faye Moving back into Pontefract Studio

If you missed my newsletter earlier this this month then you may have missed my exciting news. ( You can sign up to get my monthly newsletter here)

I’m pleased to say that I’m going to be moving back into the first floor office space in Pearl Assurance House in Pontefract (above the Wetherspoons). I’m hoping to be moving in at the beginning of October and then I’ll be able to stay on a month by month basis as the space is still on the market so I get a month’s notice when I need to move out.

Fingers crossed I’ll be able to stay there until Christmas at least but we’ll just have to wait and see.

This will be the 3rd time I’ve been able to use this space, the first time I was in one of the smaller rooms (which you can read about here) and the second time I was able to use the big room but unfortunately I was only there for a few months (which you can read about here).

Both times I just used the space as a studio that people were able to come visit when I held open days or if they made an appointment. I also did workshops there too which were again by appointment only.

This time however I’m wanting to use the space more like the time when I had the use of an empty shop in Castleford (which you can read about here) but on a bigger scale with lots of other artists and makers work on display there for sale too alongside mine.

I’ll still use it as a studio to make new work and to display my work in, so people can pop in to see what I’m working on and how I make my 3D acrylic paintings, they can also commission me to make them their very own 3D acrylic painting and to do workshops with me to make their own 3D pictures.

The plan is for it to be more like a gallery/arts and crafts shop open to the public so they can buy directly from me and all the other artists/makers work that will be there too, I’m also hoping to put on some special one off events and offers in the run up to Christmas (if I’m still able to use the space then) to try and encourage footfall. As it’s on the first floor and there aren’t any ramps or lifts it isn’t ideal for accessability so I’m going to try and do my best to overcome these somehow.

At the moment (Thursday 19th September 2019) I’m waiting to get the keys and start moving in. Then I can contact artists/makers to invite them to join me.

If you are (and/or know) an artist/maker that would like to have your work on display for sale in this space then please get in touch purplefaye.co.uk/contact  (all arts and crafts are welcome).

 

(These photos are from when I was there last time)

I’ll let you know once I get the keys and all systems are go.

 

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

 

*EDIT*

Sadly this fell through after some issues with getting the keys and then being told that the landlord had sold the property to someone else again.

How to make your own Love Hearts 3D picture like artist Purple Faye.

Earlier this year I took part in Holmfirth Artweek artist demonstrations, 7th-13th July 2019, this time I showed you how to make your very own Love Hearts 3D picture using one of my kits. This is one of my more simple but effective designs which would be ideal for an absolute beginner to make.

 

In the pictures below you can see how I used the template included in the kit to draw out the cardboard layers (the instructions included in the kit tell you which bits you need to cut out), these were then stuck together on the canvas and left to dry.

Next I cut the dry modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in) to size before I dunked it in a water and PVA/craft glue solution, wrung out the water and spread it out on top of the cardboard love hearts.

This is the stage that the kit gets you too, you then need to leave it to dry. (Mine had from Friday afternoon until Saturday morning in warm temperatures, yours may need longer or you may need to use a hairdryer to help speed things up a bit.)

While you’re waiting for it to dry you can get your paints ready that you’re going to use. I use acrylic paints and all I needed for this was black, white and red (I mixed the pink colour myself using the red and white). I started by painting the large heart in red, I then mixed my pink and used that on the smaller heart once the red was dry. Once the pink was dry I used white to add the highlights in the corners (as shown on the template) and then finished it off with a black background.

etsy.com/uk/shop/purplefayeshop

If you have already bought one of my kits thank you, if you haven’t got one yet but would like to then they are available from my etsy shop here or you can contact me directly here.

If you require any more help/advice then please contact me.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

 

How artist Purple Faye made the ‘Theo + Dumbo’ 3D acrylic painting

I’ve made a few name signs simialar in style to this in the past but it’s not something that I make much of now. But Theo’s special day was coming up and I wanted to make him something to commemorate it.

I started by drawing out the shapes for the letters, I used the first letter to help me make the rest in the same style and proportions, I then losely positioned them on the canvas to help me gauge how big to make the Dumbo to go alongside.

Next I sketched out a few different sized Dumbos on paper before selecting the one that I felt fitted best with the letters, I then used this paper drawing as a template to cut out the shapes I needed to make it 3D out of cardboard.

Once I was happy with the positioning of the cardboard on the canvas I then stuck it down and left it to dry.

After the glue had dried I could then start cutting out the dry modroc (bandages with plaster of Paris in them) to the shapes that I needed to cover the cardboard and then dunking each one in water (with a bit of glue mixed in to help it stick) wringing it out and smoothing it over the top of the cardboard until it was all thoroughly covered.

This was then left to dry before I could begin to paint it with acrylic paints.

I started by painting the Dumbo a light grey, then painted in the details, I then painted the whole of the background including the letters a light blue colour and added some white clouds to make it look like Dumbo was flying in the sky. I made the letters white so they stood out against the blue and added to the cloud effect, I felt like they didn’t quite stand out enough just white so I then added some silver highlights and a black outline which I think finished it off nicely.

I don’t have many of these sized canvases left but if you would like me to make you a 3D acrylic painting then contact me.

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk

How to make your own Cat 3D picture like artist Purple Faye.

Thank you for buying one of my kits to make your own Cat 3D Picture.

Here is how I made the original Cat 3D acrylic painting.

When making your kit you don’t have to worry about drawing your own design as I have already done this for you in the form of the template. So all you need to do is use the template and follow the instructions that I included with the kit.

If you’d like some ideas of how to paint your Cat 3D picture then you can see how I used acrylic paint to paint mine below.

etsy.com/uk/shop/purplefayeshop

 

If you require any more help/advice then please contact me.

 

Till next time.

Take care.

Purple Faye x

purplefaye.co.uk